Soba Kiri Suzu: Elevating Culinary Traditions with House-Made Buckwheat Soba and Seasonal Tempura

[Blockmedia – Eun-Jung Kwon]

When it comes to fried foods, different culinary traditions exhibit fascinating uniqueness. In Italian cuisine, frying holds an esteemed place year-round, showcasing different ingredients depending on the season: vegetables in spring, anchovies and squid in summer, mushrooms in fall, and meats in winter. Fried zucchini flowers are a standout, with delicate battering techniques that echo the precision of Japanese tempura. Italians prepare zucchini flowers with a light flour-based batter, filling them with mashed silkworm beans and cheese—a blend that may sound unfamiliar in Korea but is a staple in Italy.

Beyond zucchini flowers, Italian frying ventures into the unexpected: fresh sausage, boiled pig’s trotters, breaded chicken breast marinated post-fry, and even salami. The Italians’ obsession with "croccante" (crunchiness) makes frying an art form deeply tied to their gastronomic identity. Meanwhile, Japan’s tempura heritage, introduced in the 16th century by Portuguese and Dutch traders, has taken the craft of frying to staggering heights, blending elegance with a celebration of seasonal ingredients.

Exploring Soba Kiri Suzu's Tempura Assortment

The tempura assortment at Soba Kiri Suzu in Sindang-dong, Seoul, epitomizes this reverence for seasonality and texture. On any given day, it might feature vibrant shepherd’s purse, tender asparagus, thick slices of Japanese flying squid, and wild shrimp, each fried to perfection. This medley of flavors pays homage to the Japanese ethos of highlighting the natural essence of each ingredient. The delicate batter balances the ingredients’ inherent flavors while delivering a light, crisp structure.

The appearance of shepherd’s purse in the tempura sampler is particularly notable. As an edible wild herb familiar to Koreans, its inclusion strikes a seasonal and sentimental chord while showcasing how local produce can shine in Japanese culinary traditions. Paired with warmed sake, the natural sweetness and earthy bitterness of the shepherd’s purse come alive, creating a harmonious dialogue between food and drink. By contrast, beer’s chilled profile felt less attuned to this nuanced interplay.

Flying squid tempura emerged as another standout component of the platter. While Jeju islanders highlight the superiority of flying squid over more common varieties, its mild flavor has not typically been a personal favorite. At Soba Kiri Suzu, however, the squid is transformed—thickly cut and expertly fried, offering a rich umami depth that enhances its natural sweetness. This experience redefined my appreciation for flying squid, likening its texture to the prized “breast meat” of cuttlefish.

From Tempura to Soba: The Essence of House-Made Excellence

Soba Kiri Suzu’s true claim to fame, however, lies in its house-made buckwheat soba noodles. The restaurant has set itself apart by earning a spot in the 2026 Michelin Guide for its dedication to crafting soba that showcases both authenticity and local ingenuity. Buckwheat, sourced from within Korea, forms the cornerstone of their noodles, milled freshly on-site in a visible, trust-inspiring process. Visitors are greeted by the sight of sacks of Korean-grown buckwheat and the towering mill, reinforcing their commitment to quality.

The soba production here employs the “sotoichi” method, which blends 10 parts buckwheat with 1 part wheat flour to achieve a robust buckwheat flavor while retaining elasticity and structure. The resulting zaru soba is an exquisite dish, offering a chewy texture that fully embodies the nutty and earthy characteristics of buckwheat. The dipping sauce further highlights the noodles’ depth, a testament to Soba Kiri Suzu’s meticulous attention to every aspect of their craft.

For soba enthusiasts like myself, these noodles exceed expectations, even rivaling those found in Japan. Korea’s evolving food scene has made strides in fostering buckwheat cultivation and premium noodle production—transformations unimaginable a decade ago. Back then, most soba sold domestically contained less than 5% buckwheat, often supplemented with artificial coloring. Comparatively, today’s offerings from places like Soba Kiri Suzu embody authenticity, sustainable sourcing, and a celebration of traditional techniques.

The Delicate Balance Between Tempura and Tradition

Soba Kiri Suzu complements its star dish with a curated ensemble of side plates, including tempura and futomaki. The futomaki achieves a delicate equilibrium, balancing simmered gourd and egg for a light, harmonious flavor. Each dish contributes to a cohesive narrative that prioritizes simplicity and reverence for ingredients, all showcased within a minimalist, Zen-inspired dining space. This refined atmosphere mirrors the precise and thoughtful culinary style of the restaurant.

The dedication to both flavor and aesthetics is also evident in the seasonal tempura offered alongside soba. Japan’s deep-fried tradition, rooted in centuries of innovation, emphasizes delicate battering and frying precision to elevate vegetables like Japanese eggplant to new heights. Once an ingredient I avoided due to its mushy texture, eggplant tempura won me over with its meaty bite and complex savoriness. The frying process activates glutamate compounds, enhancing its umami profile—an act of culinary magic that continues to astonish me.

A Culinary Destination Worth Celebrating

Soba Kiri Suzu excels in bridging the gap between tradition and innovation, offering diners a comprehensive experience that highlights the best of Japanese culinary heritage. From the crackling fried textures of seasonal tempura to the earthy complexity of house-made soba, every aspect of the meal reflects a deep respect for nature’s bounty. The dedication to using Korean-grown buckwheat reinforces both sustainability and a celebration of local ingredients, elevating their soba to an art form accessible to Seoulites and visitors alike.

For those in search of culinary inspiration, Soba Kiri Suzu captures the essence of the seasons while paying homage to time-honored techniques. It’s a place that not only appeals to gourmets but also serves as a reminder of how food connects us to culture, memory, and the changing rhythms of nature.

Plan Your Visit to Soba Kiri Suzu

Address: 1st Floor, 98 Dongho-ro 12-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul (200 meters from Cheonggu Station Exit 1) Menu Highlights: Zaru Soba (11,000 won), Nishin Tororo Soba (20,000 won), Ten Zaru Soba (19,000 won), Tempura Assortment (17,000 won, featuring wild shrimp, flying squid, and seasonal vegetables)

Eun-Jung Kwon is a food journalist with over two decades of experience. A graduate of the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners (ICIF), he has authored multiple culinary books, including “Wine and Tuna Mayo” and “Savoring Italy Through Pasta.”